Received: from srvr22.engin.umich.edu (root`at`srvr22.engin.umich.edu [141.213.75.21]) by srvr5.engin.umich.edu (8.9.1a/8.9.1) with ESMTP id BAA02753 for ; Tue, 21 Dec 1999 01:31:19 -0500 (EST) Received: from funinacapulco.rs.itd.umich.edu (funinacapulco.rs.itd.umich.edu [141.211.14.27]) by srvr22.engin.umich.edu (8.9.1a/8.9.1) with ESMTP id BAA19239 for ; Tue, 21 Dec 1999 01:31:18 -0500 (EST) Received: (from daemon`at`localhost) by funinacapulco.rs.itd.umich.edu (8.9.3/3.1u) with X.500 id BAA00637 for spencer`at`engin.umich.edu; Tue, 21 Dec 1999 01:31:17 -0500 (EST) Received: from eklektix.com (eklektix.com [38.153.40.3]) by funinacapulco.rs.itd.umich.edu (8.9.3/3.1u) with SMTP id BAA00628 for ; Tue, 21 Dec 1999 01:31:15 -0500 (EST) Received: (qmail 18223 invoked by uid 10); 21 Dec 1999 05:56:48 -0000 Received: by raven.talisman.com (smail2.5) id AA23910; 20 Dec 99 22:14:44 MST (Mon) From: mead-request`at`talisman.com Errors-To: mead-errors`at`talisman.com Reply-To: mead`at`talisman.com To: mead`at`talisman.com Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #774, 20 December 1999 Message-Id: <9912202214.AA23910`at`raven.talisman.com> Date: 20 Dec 99 22:14:44 MST (Mon) Status: RO Mead Lover's Digest #774 20 December 1999 Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor Contents: Happy Holidays ("Roger Flanders") water removal ("Spies, Jay") another point re fruit in the primary (Dick Dunn) Freezing Methods ("Mark Nelson") rose hips ("Foor, Dean") Re: Killing that sweat mead... (Scott Gemmett) Orange Mead Question ("Jason K. Dobranic") Re: Mead Lover's Digest #773, 14 December 1999 (peter.spinney`at`analog.com) Culturing yeast strains (Steve Drake) Need email address to American Mead Association (Angie Helm) Is it legal? (Terence L Bradshaw) Re: Pre-Fermentation Oxidative Browning (Dan McFeeley) Blueberry Melomel ("Eric Bonney") x-country mead (Ken Mason) Book (Nathan Kanous) auspicious if you're superstitious (Dick Dunn) NOTE: Digest only appears when there is enough material to send one. Send ONLY articles for the digest to mead`at`talisman.com. Use mead-request`at`talisman.com for [un]subscribe/admin requests. When subscribing, please include name and email address in body of message. Digest archives and FAQ are available for anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu in pub/clubs/homebrew/mead. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Happy Holidays From: "Roger Flanders" Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 12:58:45 -0600 First, thank you to all of you on this list who have contributed to my reading enjoyment and edification this year. May you all have a happy holiday season and an equally effervescent new year! We're having great fun this week mailing and/or hand-delivering our homemade "Christmas Cards" -- recycled green Grolsch bottles of a dry, cinnamon-spiced cyser, with a simple laserjet label and a bright red ribbon. It's been fascinating to discover how little most of our friends, even those who are accomplished wine drinkers, know about mead. They had no idea our bees could do that! If you haven't introduced all of your friends to mead, we'd suggest now is the season. - --Rog Flanders, Nemaha County, Nebraska ------------------------------ Subject: water removal From: "Spies, Jay" Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:07:28 -0500 Ok, I have this friend... :) He wants to distill some mead into a liqueur by removing frozen water. Problem is, in order to get his raspberry mel (1.115 OG - 1.014 FG, ~13% alc) reduced, he needs some way to get the ice *out*. I've heard the big boys (Molson, etc...) freeze beer until crystals form, and then filter them out. That's great, if you've got an unlimited budget and acres of stainless. However, how is it done on a home scale? My friend was thinking of putting the mead into a bucket lined with cheesecloth (both sanitized of course), and then putting the whole mess into the freezer. When ice crystals form, just lift out the cheesecloth, straining the ice crystals out wth it... In theory, of course... Anyone have any thoughts on whether this would work, or any other suggestions that I could, um, relay to...uh, him. TIA Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD ------------------------------ Subject: another point re fruit in the primary From: rcd`at`raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Date: 14 Dec 99 12:15:30 MST (Tue) Wayne Kozun reminded me in a private note that another reason for putting fruit in the primary is that the fruit supplies adequate nutrients for the yeast to get going. I've always gotten vigorous fermentation (sometimes alarmingly so) with fruit in the primary and without any sort of nutrient or energizer added. - --- Dick Dunn rcd`at`talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA Y2K: not the end of the world; not even the end of the millennium! ------------------------------ Subject: Freezing Methods From: "Mark Nelson" Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:15:18 -0500 I've read the recent posts about freezing mead to remove water in the form on ice, leaving a mead brandy. What is the preferred method and vessel for doing this? Does the ice separate easily from the rest of the solution? Do you strain the ice out, or somehow rack the brandy away? What does mead brandy taste like anyway? Mark Nelson Atlanta ------------------------------ Subject: rose hips From: "Foor, Dean" Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:51:42 -0800 Concerning the use of rose hips: I have not used rose hips myself in a mead but I do know that it is recommend that they freeze before they are consumed. As with other berry-type fruit (like crow-berries)some of the tart-ness subsides after a freeze. Native Alaskans have relied on rose hips to sustain themselves during times food shortages and since such shortages usually occur/occured in the winter it ends up being a great match. So... I would say that it is safe and even preferable to use rose hips after they have been frozen. ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Killing that sweat mead... From: Scott Gemmett Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:54:19 -0800 Sweat mead??!!! Yuck! Where did you obtain your sweat? Dirty gym socks? Or did you use fresh sweat right off a sweaty person? Kind of gives you a new spin on the phrase 'fermenting the must' ------------------------------ Subject: Orange Mead Question From: "Jason K. Dobranic" Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:31:19 -0500 I forgot who originally mailed out that Orange mead recipe. The one last month regarding pesticides on the orange peel. I am in the process of fermenting one of these but can't recall what FG should I be shooting for? Was it 1.020? For some reason this number keeps popping up in my mind. If the person who sent the recipe could reply or anyone else who has tried it I would be thankful, Jason Jason K. Dobranic Texas Tech University Lubbock, TX. ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #773, 14 December 1999 From: peter.spinney`at`analog.com Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 16:16:57 -0500 (EST) > > Home-distilled moonshine can be of poor quality > > and high in toxins which can include a multitude > > of chemicals > > However, no inherit dangers exist with > recrystallization, (except frost bite). In heat > distillation, a sloppy job can result in the ethanol > being cracked into methanol (wood alcohol) and > other nasties. But as for mentioned, it requires > heat. To my knowledge, this is why distilation is > illegal. The BATF is probably more than happy to let people believe myths like the above . . . it makes it much easier to enforce an illogical law if they don't have to chase around small-timers distilling at home for their own use. People like to think that our government has our best interests at heart when they make laws, but the unholy alliance of the liquor companies and distributors and the BATF has only their interests in mind. Consider the following: 1) The federal government collects tax on distilled alcohol amounting to about 3 times the actual value of the product. I.E., they get about $12 for each $4 gallon of spirits!!! Only products deemed "morally questionable" (sin tax) get this kind of treatment. 2) Low molecular weight alcohols have physical/chemical properties more like water than the hydrocarbon chains they derive from. Ethanol boils at 78.5C and water at 100C. The azeotrope of ethanol and water boils at 78.3(or 78.1?)C so the still must be operated well below the boiling temp of water for any separation to occur and "cracking" is simply not an issue at these temperatures. If it was, Julia Child would have gone blind years ago from all the decomposed sherry in her recipes. Having said that, nothing will come out of a still that wasn't put into it . . . if your mead/wine is free of methanol your brandy will be too. Most so-called impurities in distilled spirits are fusal oils. They contribute to both the flavor of the spirit and its hangover potential. For example, brandy is high in fusal oils and vodka has little or none. A safe still is constructed out of materials safe to cook in . . . glass, stainless, copper, teflon . . . and not out of toxic materials like lead or cadmium. If you wouldn't cook in it, don't distill in it. :) 3) Home distilling IS legal in some countries like New Zealand and in the few years that this has been so it has become a popular hobby. There a basic still can be bought for a couple hundred bucks and person with no experience can take it home and be making great booze in a couple of weeks. Why not in the U.S.? Simple, because the liquor companies don't want to give up their monopoly and Uncle Sam doesn't want to give up the revenue. The BATF is the thug that defends the liquor companies' turf and the abominable rate of taxation is the protection money that liquor companies are more than willing to pay to have the G-men "rub out" any competition. Check out this site: http://brewersworld.co.nz/Catalogue/spiritstart.htm Regards and Wassail, - -pete ------------------------------ Subject: Culturing yeast strains From: Steve Drake Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:28:33 -0500 With the demise of Edme yeasts, I was wanting to culture my last packet in the lab and make my own perm stocks for future use. Part of that would include plating out the yeast and re-streaking it to ensure there is no contamination. I have heard somewhere that some of these yeast strains are actually combinations of strains. If so, then I don't want to do this step. Does anyone know if Edme yeast is actually a pure strain or a combination of strains? Was my distant recollection faulty and all packaged yeasts are pure single strains? Also, I had planned to culture these like normal lab yeast but have not actually done any yet. Those of you out there that have, are there any special tricks to culturing brewing yeast as oppose to standard lab yeasts. (Other then doing it in 5 gal batches while using honey as a sugar source ;-))))) Thanks, Steve - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Steve Drake Drake`at`box-d.nih.gov NIH, NICHD, CBMB Phone 301.402-0358 Building 18T, room 101 Fax 301.402-0078 Bethesda, MD 20892 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Subject: Need email address to American Mead Association From: Angie Helm Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:14:05 -0800 (PST) Hi Folks I'd like to compete in the Ambrosia Adventure mead competition can you give me any information about how I'd go about entering? Also can you give me any information about how I'd go about entering the American Mead Association competition? Also I'd appreciate any information you can give me regarding entering meadmaking competition. Thank you Angie ------------------------------ Subject: Is it legal? From: Terence L Bradshaw Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:11:42 -0500 >> Home-distilled moonshine can be of poor quality >> and high in toxins which can include a multitude >> of chemicals > >However, no inherit dangers exist with >recrystallization, (except frost bite). In heat >distillation, a sloppy job can result in the ethanol >being cracked into methanol (wood alcohol) and >other nasties. But as for mentioned, it requires >heat. To my knowledge, this is why distilation is >illegal. In recrystallization, one is simply removing >water ice as it crystallizes in the freezer. No >chemical reactions take place no matter how >sloppy you are. > >If I take 5 gallons of 8% mead and through >recrystallization, remove the water to create >3 quarts of 48% mead-brandy, no new toxins >will be present in the resulting product. >Just mead concentrate :-) Maybe I'm wrong, but I am under the impression that fractionally distilled spirits (i.e. applejack or meadjack(?)) are actually more dangerous to one's health than heat distilled concentrates. This of course assumes that in the heat distillation temperatures are carefully monitored so that the heads and tails are removed. These materials which have either higher or lower boiling points than alcohol (which boils around 170F) often contain various ketones and aldehydes which, in commercial distilleries, are collected for use in nail polish removers and the like. If you are ever around a distillation, take a whiff out of the collection pipe when the pot temperature gets to around 145-150F. This stuff could literally peel the paint off the walls. In distilling this material, these dangerous compounds are removed. In the original material (cider, mead, etc) they are not present in high enough concentrations to cause more than a wretched hangover. When concentrated through fractional (freeze) crystallization, only water is removed, and therefore these compounds are concentrated along with the alcohol. I had a friend once give me a mason jar of some 'apple-likker' he'd made off a still. I can't attest to the cleanliness of the stuff as it was too damn strong for me and I only used it for flambes. He swore by the stuff mixed with lemonade, however. On the other hand, I have made 'jack on a couple of occasions, and while it tastes wonderful, I will personally attest to the head-pounding it gives you. Any other experiences? Oh yeah- that 'jack was made with a 100% MacIntosh cider which was pretty insipid, acidic, and overly aromatic. The 'jacking made it a MUCH better product... Terence Bradshaw Pomona Tree Fruit Service University of Vermont Apple Team PO Box 258, Chelsea, VT 05038 122 Hills Building (802)685-3412 Burlington, VT 05402 madshaw`at`quest-net.com (802)656-0490 ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Pre-Fermentation Oxidative Browning From: Dan McFeeley Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:38:10 -0600 On Thu, 25 Nov 1999 in MLD 770, Brian Lundeen replying to Dave Burley, wrote: >> I cannot recommend aeration of a fermentation as >> you will likely produce oxidative browning before >> the yeast begin to ferment. [....] Burley's stuff deleted for brevity's sake >Absolutely, you will get oxidative browning. However, whereas you regard >this as a problem, I belong to a growing number of winemakers who believe >that pre-fermentation oxidative browning, or PFOB, is a good thing. [....] and yet more stuff deleted from Brian's reply >I have used PFOB on premium grape musts that I know did not have sulfites >added to them, and have not experienced any oxidative properties in the >finished products. I vividly recall one of the first wines I used this >technique on was a Muscat Canelli, which is a fairly dark juice as whites >go. Before fermentation, it looked like 5 gallons of cafe au lait, with not >a whole lotta lait. 5 years later, the wine is still drinking beautifully. >Now maybe I'm incorrect in assuming that a honey must will behave the same >as a grape must. However, I'm willing to take that risk. I am starting >another mead soon, and plan to PFOB it with my air stone. I will let the >MLD know how it turns out. Risk taking is a good thing! Even failures are a success, because they show where true limits lie rather than being left to accepting the dictates of conventional wisdom. I can't offer much on PFOB and how it is used in winemaking, but this is what I've found. It was developed in California, but has also been used in Australian winemaking practices. Simi Winery in California was one of the first pioneers in this technique in 1981, using it in the production of their Chardonnays. It can produce wines that are fuller and more complex, but they age more slowly and there is loss of fruit flavors due to the precipitation of the oxidized phenols, some of which are flavoring phenols. Color is lighter and takes longer to deepen, again because of the lower phenol content. The method is reported to work well with high-flavored grapes but less so with grapes having a more delicate flavor. Another factor in the use of PFOB in winemaking is the practice of pressing the whole grape bunch, giving a higher phenol content in the juice from the tannins in stems and seeds. Andrew Lea on the Cider Digest has also offered some helpful information on PFOB. He says that PFOB has become popular in Spain, Southern Italy and Australia. It is used to help minimize post-fermentation browning, a problem with white wines in these areas. He also points out that it is done with the freshly pressed juice so that the enzyme responsible for browning, polyphenoloxidase (PPO), is present. He quotes Andrew Ewart in _Fermented Beverage Production_: "the loss of fresh fruit characters from this treatment may not be detrimental to full-bodied full-flavoured wines but does detract from the floral fruity style wines." You are correct in questioning whether a honey must will act in the same ways as the grape musts that have responded favorably to PFOB. Phenolic content of honey is contributed from its floral source and consequently varies widely according to the honey type. It might work for one honey type, but give no results or even poor results with other honeys. Another point to consider is that honey has antioxidant properties, which tend to increase as the color darkens. Research by Kime and Lee at the Geneva Agricultural station, Cornell university in New York, comparing wines made with honey to wines made using conventional sulfiting methods suggests that honey can play a similar role in protecting against oxidation. This does sound like a great experiment -- have you started a mead made with the same honey, but without PFOB in order to taste compare the finished meads? Looking foward to hearing the results! ------------------------------ Subject: Blueberry Melomel From: "Eric Bonney" Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 19:27:19 -0500 I just finished bottling my 1st ever attempt at a mead. The F.G. reading was about 1.029 down from an O.G. of 1.126. It tastes a little tart right now from the blueberries I think, but I feel this will most likely mellow over time. After talking to a few people I choose 1 ltr. E-Z cap bottles to store the mead in. Does anyone have any experience in using these bottles for long term storage? Will I have any problems with the mead going bad due to oxygenation? I used WYeast Sweet Mead yeast and the mead seems a bit sweet to me. I was first worried that it would not be sweet enough but that is not the case. What types of yeast would anyone recommend for something a little bit dryer, but not real dry? I did learn one lesson from this trail batch. Next time I will do at least a 5 gallon batch if not a 10 gallon batch. Was a lot of work for only 8 litters of mead and it will be gone way to fast! :) Thanks again, can't wait to see how this stuff have aged and tastes after tax season. Will be a very nice treat on April 15th! - -Eric Bonney Prejudism is a learned trait, what are YOU teaching your children?!?! ------------------------------ Subject: x-country mead From: Ken Mason Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 17:12:23 -0800 (PST) What is the best/cheapest method for sending your mead? Currently I use foam bottle shippers. Has anyone dared to send their mead x-country cushioned with just packing peanuts or bubble wrap? I think I've got a pretty good source. The drawback is you must purchase in bulk with 5 being the minimum purchase amount. 1 bottle shippers are 3.95 ea 2 bottle shippers are 4.95 ea 12 bottle shippers are 13.50 ea and prices go down as you order more The company is Uline (www.uline.com) a photo shot of their wine shipping merchandise is `at` http://www.uline.com/pdf/fw9900/022fw9900.pdf Adobe acrobat required. Is this a good deal? thanks (should have gotten this subject going before the holidays. . .O well) ------------------------------ Subject: Book From: Nathan Kanous Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:58:48 -0600 Hi Everybody. Just stopped at the local brew store and found a book that looks interesting, if not promising. Making Wild Wines & Meads : 125 Unusual Recipes Using Herbs, Fruits, Flowers & More by Pattie Vargas, Rich Gulling. Anybody with experience looked at this book? How do the recipe's look to an experienced mead maker? Any info would be appreciated. nathan in madison, wi ------------------------------ Subject: auspicious if you're superstitious From: rcd`at`raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Date: 20 Dec 99 17:57:12 MST (Mon) As various stories (of varying accuracy) floating around the 'net have noted, December 22 is the solstice, a full moon, and moon perigee. Seems like an auspicious time to make a mead. (Burley had suggested in the HBD that it would be a good date to brew a beer, but I think mead is married more to magic, the moon, and mysticality.) The three events don't land right on top of one another, of course, but they're all within ten hours. The non-mystical significance is that a full moon is higher in the sky and hence brighter, in winter. (Apologies to folks in the Other Hemisphere where the moon will be low.) Lunar perigee also makes the moon substantially brighter. Earth is near enough to peri- helion to add a little more effect. If you have a clear night it ought to be a very bright moon. If you want to plan your ritual, the times are (all UTC) solstice 07:44, perigee 10:44, full moon 17:31, give or take a couple minutes. This actually puts solstice on the US left coast just before midnight on the 21st. - --- Dick Dunn rcd`at`talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA Y2K: not the end of the world; not even the end of the millennium! ------------------------------ End of Mead Lover's Digest #774 *******************************